And for this gift I feel blessed

I'm into my fourth year in Cairo. Like most Cairo residents, including Egyptians, I have a love/hate relationship with the city. It is completely chaotic. The traffic is legendary, for good reason. It is, unquestionably, the worst traffic I have ever experienced in my life. On a good day it's awful; on a bad day it would make you lose the will to live if you weren't constantly worried that you were about to literally lose the actual ability to live. I'm too scared to drive in Cairo because frankly, sometimes it's terrifying being a passenger in the back, never mind the front. I've been in three accidents where other cars have driven into the car I was in. Before I moved to Egypt I'd had two such accidents in my whole life. Some Egyptians drive like maniacs and there's very little to stop them.

Cairo has a severe litter problem. There are piles of it everywhere. Cairo is a truly incredible city, but you can't see it for piles of rubbish. I first visited 20 years ago, it wasn't like this. I don't really know what happened. The absolute worst is the road in Giza that goes out to the Pyramids; on a journey to the last remaining wonder of the world, there are Pyramid sized piles of rubbish, with sheep, goats, street dogs and cats feeding on it. It doesn't give me much confidence in the quality of the meat, to be honest.

The litter problem

There's the smog. I can see it lying over the city when I come down the hill in the morning from Mokattam on my way to work. Seventh worst in the world apparently, although it depends which data source you use. Sometimes the smog is augmented by sand storms; sometimes by the dust from the fields burning. And I'm breathing this stuff in!

Egyptians are noisy. They know this about themselves and admit to it freely. They even complain about themselves being noisy. My husband's default volume level is several notches above mine, and when he's annoyed (which is most of the time) or arguing with someone (the rest of the time) he can be heard three streets away. Well he would be able to if everyone else wasn't conducting their business at the same volume. When I ask him who he was shouting at, he says indignantly "I wasn't shouting!" Believe me, my love, you were. Then there's the car horns, the street dogs barking, the gas cannister guys banging their cannisters to attract your attention in case you want one (or if you don't). We also have what were called rag and bone men in Britain, who pay for things you want to get rid of. They drive through the streets on a surprisingly frequent basis yelling "bekyaaaaaaaa!!!", again to make sure you know they're there whether you need them or not.

Being an obvious foreigner, I attract attention. Shop owners, delivery drivers, small boys, passing pedestrians have all, at one time or another, shouted "welcome in Egypt!" Every single time I want to say "I think you mean welcome TO Egypt!". I did once and he looked at me completely blankly. Talking of being foreign, there is the tendency of some Egyptians to try to fleece you because you're foreign. That's annoying.

Sometimes it feels like you're taking your life in your hands merely by stepping out of your front door. Most pavements are in a right state, so it's run the risk of breaking your ankle, or walking in the road and be knocked over by a moped or a tuk tuk or an angry taxi driver. Most taxi drivers seem to be angry. I think it's Uber. And as for crossing the road! I admit there is a knack to it, but even then I often still wait until Egyptians are crossing and scuttle across with them. When accidents do happen, it's a trauma finding healthcare because the healthcare system is still a mystery to me. Finding a good doctor is more difficult than it should be and more by luck than design. I have travelled all over Cairo to see various different doctors.

And yet. There's something about Cairo that grabs you when you're not looking and says you WILL love me, even if I give you a million reasons to hate me. The street dog who comes to say hello, just because it wants to. Driving from the office to Sheikh Zayed and seeing the Pyramids, and thinking bloody hell, I live in the city where the pyramids are! Driving along the corniche at night and seeing the lights from all the boats reflect on the Nile. A sunset felucca ride. A friend of mine said recently that one of the best things about Cairo is that you can do really cool stuff for not much money, and she was right.

View from a felucca

It's a city of contrasts and contradictions, a genuine 24 hour city. Full of tiny art galleries and traditional coffee shops. The best koshary in the city is served in a restaurant I wouldn't set foot in back in Britain. You can get anything delivered any time of the day or night, which believe me is not necessarily a good thing. Especially when there are shops that only serve dessert. There are so many places that most tourists never go and yet tell you more about Egyptian culture and history than any trip to the Pyramids - the Street of the Tentmakers. The Umm Kulthoum museum. The Nileometer. And so many more. It would take more than the time I've got left to see them all.

And then there are Egyptians. I have met so many extraordinary people in this city. My friend the tour guide who is one of the most intelligent and knowledgeable people I have ever met. The vet who spends all his spare time and money neutering street animals. The woman who helps him by running an NGO, organising trap/neuter/release programmes, and in her spare time raises money at garage sales. Another vet who has 16 cats, all rescued. The people who run shelters against all odds. An ex colleague who persuaded the British Council to hold an orphans' Iftar during Ramadan. There are so many more people I feel truly privileged to have met, and now count as friends. Egyptians are mostly warm, friendly and funny. They love their food and they love a party. Of course there are also Egyptians who are cruel, dishonest and unpleasant. This isn't Shangri La, but in truth, where is?

Last weekend I went with my closest friends to see a Nirvana tribute band. There are also tribute bands for Pink Floyd (seen them twice), Radiohead and The Doors. There are probably others. We sat in a tiny art centre and café and watched a 16 year old Egyptian Kurt Cobain. And mostly they were pretty good, although the whole experience was surreal.

Kurt Cobain

Then we went to a trendy bar on the 19th floor of a bank building and drank cocktails with a spectacular view down the Nile.

View from the 19th floor bar

I live in a city that is crazy, chaotic, terrifying (mostly while trying to cross the road), noisy, dusty and polluted. It's also the most alive and vibrant city I have ever been to, never mind lived in. It's full of surprises. I will never be bored living here. Dear Cairo, my city, my home. You have taught me more about life, love and myself than I ever could have envisaged. And for this gift I feel blessed.

New Cairo