Tuesday, 24 May 2016

Another story of another trip to Alexandria


Those of you who have known me a long time will remember that a few years ago, I spent six months travelling to and from Amsterdam on a weekly basis. I'm incident prone at the best of times, but there was something about Amsterdam that amplified it. I lost count of the number of times I tripped, fell, lost things, lost myself and got the time zones confused. One time on the metro someone actually fell on me. I'm beginning to think that Alexandria is going to turn out to be the same - maybe I should avoid cities beginning with A. In fact Alexandria seems to be worse - as well as being incident prone, it seems to turn me into a ditzy idiot. Just read my last post if you don't believe me.

It started before I even got to Alexandria. According to our travel agent at work, all the hotels we use were full. I really needed to go this week, so I looked into airbnb and checked with my boss who approved it. Found somewhere that was walking distance to the office, had WiFi (essential) and was described as 'luxury'. It seemed a bit pricy to me but then maybe that's what luxury costs in Alexandria I thought. And I've never used airbnb before so I had no idea what was a reasonable price to pay. It also could sleep six so that would put the price up, I supposed.

I set of from work in my Uber to catch the 14.00 train. Unlike last time, my ticket was for the right day. So far so good. Got on the train. As I was catching up on my social media, one of my team called. "Carol, your laptop is sitting here on your desk. Did you mean to take it with you?" I rummaged in my laptop bag. No laptops present. Honestly. I could hear them all laughing in the background.
 
I did manage to get off at the right station in Alexandria for the first time, so things were looking up. Needless to say, not for long. It was only a 15 minute walk, and it was a lovely, sunny, fresh day in Alexandria. So I decided to walk. What I was forgetting, of course, was the fact that the pavements in Egypt are shit. So dragging your wheelie case along loose paving stones, sand, gravel and numerous other obstructions isn't a pleasant experience. This is when you can actually get on the pavement - half the time you have to run the gauntlet with the traffic because there are cars parked on the pavement. My right arm ached by the time I found the apartment.
 
When the doorman opened the apartment door, I was slightly taken aback by the huge, old fashioned dining room table and chairs. Oh well I thought, I can live with antique furniture for two nights. The doorman put my case in the bedroom and left. My initial impressions were not good. It looked pretty tatty to me for something described as 'luxury'. I couldn't get the air conditioning to work, that was the first issue. Then the person who I was in contact with called me. I asked for the WiFi password. She said "there is no internet". "But I specifically chose this place because it says there is WiFi" I said through gritted teeth. She repeated that there was no internet at all. Right, I thought, well I'll just have to make the best of this.
  
I went to the toilet. The shower curtain rail was falling off the wall. Hmmm I thought. Still making the best of this although the best is becoming increasingly hard to find. There was no loo roll. And no towels. I wondered if I had messed up here - are these things not provided in airbnb properties? I would have to have a closer look (and I'd have to go shopping for loo roll and a towel).
 
The wardrobe was a gigantic, old fashioned walnut affair. I opened the door so I could hang up my work clothes. It fell off - on to me. If I hadn't reacted quickly it would have landed on me, as it was it hit me on the arm. Gosh, I thought. This isn't going as planned. Some instinct made me throw back the duvet. It was covered in stains. I actually gagged. F**k making the best of this! I went straight on to airbnb to complain, and while I was waiting for their site to respond, I looked on booking.com. Well there were loads of places and I have no idea why our travel agent couldn't find anywhere. I will be having a conversation with them on this very subject when I get back to the office next week. I booked into the Sheraton which was cheaper than all the hotels I had tried to book in that were full. Called another Uber. Went to the Sheraton. God, the relief. Nice room, air conditioning, WiFi, loo roll, towels. Intact shower rail. And a fruit bowl. And room service. And BEER in the mini bar.

While I was in the Uber on the way to the Sheraton, airbnb rang me, and I have to say I was extremely impressed. They were full of apologies and said numerous times that this "hardly ever happens!" They had also noted that this was my first airbnb experience, and it hadn't gone well (to say the least). They asked me to send the photographs I had taken of the wardrobe door, the stains (barf) and the shower. I did this, and shortly after I arrived in the Sheraton, my money had been refunded. Not only that, they gave me a voucher for another stay, to the value of this stay! I was well impressed. As they have handled my complaint so amazingly well, I'm definitely going to give them another go. Maybe not in Alexandria though, or any other cities beginning with A.

My worry is that I still have another 44 hours before I leave Alexandria (this is assuming I go to the right station and get on the right train), so goodness knows what might happen between now and then. However, for tonight at least, all’s well that ends well. These are the views from my hotel room. Not half bad.

Post blog note - I checked on airbnb after I wrote this and discovered that the apartment should have included loo roll and towels. Sigh.

Thursday, 5 May 2016

Story of a trip to Alexandria

I had to go to Alexandria today with work, on the train. I booked my tickets yesterday through work. It never fails to amaze me how cheap it is. Given that Cairo is the capital of Egypt and Alexandria is the second city, and it takes two and a half hours, the ticket price of 72 Egyptian Pounds (about £5.60) for first class seems unbelievable. Admittedly it's not quite like Virgin Trains from Manchester to London, but then it doesn't cost £332 either (I just looked at the price online). Unfortunately I discovered this morning on the train that I'd booked tickets for the wrong day. Tomorrow, in fact. Luckily the train inspector took pity on me and let me off with it and tore my wrong ticket up. I think it was my horrified face. He said (I think) that I'd have to buy a new ticket for the return journey. 

I also discovered that I'd forgotten to charge up my work phone which ran out of battery about 6 minutes into the journey. Oh well. I was trying to finish Grapes of Wrath for Reading Club tomorrow anyway. So engrossed was I in GoW that I didn't notice that we were trundling through Alexandria. Last time I came here by train I got off at the wrong station and had to get a taxi to the right station because my driver was there. This time, as we pulling out of the right station, I suddenly realised that I should be on the platform that was now whizzing by. I'd missed my station AGAIN. So I didn't get to the office in time to start the meeting I'd arranged, but at least I amused everybody. 

I moved the meeting to 1pm then discovered I'd forgotten my notebook with all notes for the meeting. Had to filch one from a colleague, who'd just been laughing about the station. "What is wrong with you!" He said. Honestly - I wish I knew. Sent out some pre meeting information "for the meeting at 3". Confused meeting attendees. Isn't meeting at 1? Oh yes. Sorry about that. Seriously, what IS wrong with me? Due to lack of notes I had to blag in the meeting. 

Free ride on the train
Left for station ridiculously early in case I went to the wrong station. Bought another ticket. Train late. Watched two lads race for a train that was already moving...on the other platform. They jumped on to the rails and crossed over. Someone inside the train grabbed one of them. Then he grabbed the other. Both hanging off the rapidly speeding up train. My hair was standing on end. Watched another train coming in with a load of people standing on the engine, see photo. Sorry it's blurry but the train was actually moving quite fast and they weren't even holding on. Health and safety Egyptian style. 

Walked to the wrong end of the train (which is VERY LONG). Because it was about to leave I had to walk all the way back to the front through the train and I could see the ground rushing by in the gaps between the carriages. Small gaps but still! It was the ground and the metal thingies were moving about! A kind train man asked me where I was trying to go (at least I think that's probably what he asked), and I managed to say two in Arabic. Then he said something along the lines of you're in coach five. Coach two is that way. And I broadly understood!

I'm still on the train. I now have a cup of tea and a piece of English Cake. Given I lived in England for 29 years, it's surprising to note that I haven't got the first idea what English cake is. Turns out to be a bit like madeira cake with bits in. I'm hoping my adventures are over for the day but really, the way this day is going, it seems unlikely. I'll keep you posted. 

Post blog update: Well, I made it home without further incident. The positives from today are that I now know what English cake is and I managed to have a sort-of conversation in Arabic.

 

Monday, 2 May 2016

Notes from Hurghada

I'm so sorry, dear blog readers, that it has been so long since I last posted a blog. You'll be pleased to hear that this is because I've been so unbelieveably busy that I've hardly had a moment, but of course this means this will be a bit of a long blog post so I can catch you up will all the news. I've decided to commit to writing a blog post at least once a fortnight, even if it's a short one.

Goodness me where do I start? I think I'll start from now and work backwards. I'm in Hurghada at the moment. It was a really short notice trip for just two nights with a friend. This is one of the things I love about living in Egypt. You can decide at the last minute to spend a weekend by the sea in the sun, and the flight takes less than an hour. I felt I really needed this break because I have been really ill for over three weeks. I originally thought I had a virus because I had a temperature, aching joints and other symptoms which I won't desrcibe. But as I wasn't really getting better, I eventually decided to go to a doctor. Well I had already been to see a doctor at the Anglo American Hospital as an emergency (severe stomach pains) and whilst that helped with the acute symptoms, I still wasn't getting better. Anyway. The healthcare system here in Egypt is confusing (which is the kind word) and I didn't really have a clue how to find good doctor, so I looked on What Clinic. I went to see him and it turns out that using the criteria "having a kind face" for selection was highly successful. He was lovely. He asked about my medical history, spent loads of time talking to me and took care to make sure I understood what he was saying. It turns out there's a parasite that's endemic in the water here in Egypt called giardi which causes an illness called giardiasis. Which is what I've got. I was shocked. I always thought the water in Cairo was safe. I don't drink it out of the tap, but I do boil it up for tea and rinse my vegetables and fruit in it. Boiling it for tea isn't long enough apparently. So it's bottled water from now on, although the long term solution is getting a filter fitted to the water supply. I'm pretty sure he's right though because since I started the drugs he prescribed I feel a million times better. Thank GOD. The other good thing is that I now have my own doctor.

Ceiling of the Nilometre
A friend of mine who is a tour guide took me on a trip to the Umm Kulthum Museum and the Nilometre on Friday. Both of these were fascinating. I've written an article on Umm Kulthum for Oasis magazine (more on that later) so I won't repeat it here. The Nilometre was amazing. If there's one thing I love, it's functional items that are also beautiful. The Nilometre was built about 1200 years ago to measure the level of the Nile floods, and from that taxes were calculated. But for something with such a prosaic purpose, it's really quite beautiful inside. I have attached some photographs. Anyone in Cairo reading this, I highly recommend a visit. As with most of these hidden gems in Cairo, there was no-one else there. The guard had to unlock the door and switch the lights on for us.

I have been doing loads of writing, it's really quite incredible. And it all started with this blog and going to my writer's group. I have written four articles that have been published in the CSA magazine Oasis - the CSA is the expat association. I have attached links at the end for anyone wants to read them. Even more astonishing than this, I have had an article published on the online English Language Egyptian newspaper, Egyptian Streets, and it was shared over 1000 times. I was completely overwhelmed. It was my friends in the writer's group who said I should send it for publication but I was stunned when it was actually published. There's a link to that too at the bottom. Despite my lack of blogs, I do love writing. I've found that in some really difficult moments it has helped enormously to write stuff down. Maybe I'll use some of this in the future to write a book.

My job is going really well. I love it. Obviously it has its challenges but I don't think I could find a job that better suits my skills. It's also a lovely place to work socially, my colleagues are friendly and in the main easy to work with. I also have the best boss IN THE ENTIRE WORLD (...and his wife reads my blog hee hee!) The only problem really is that my salary is being gradually eroded by the appalling exhange rate between Egyptian pounds and every other useful currency (£, $ Euro). I also have a driver which makes my commute so much easier. What I should do on my commute is revise my Arabic or something else useful; what I actually do is check my Facebook news feed, look at Buzzfeed, play Words with Friends etc. The most amazing thing about my job is that I have to go to events at the British Embassy. So far I have been to the Cambridge International Exams and Pearson Edexcel High Achiever's Awards, a dinner with the Royal College of Surgeons and the Queen's Birthday Gala. It's unbelievable. I've met the British Ambassador. He's lovely. A came to the Queen's Birthday Gala and, like all of us, fell in love with the Ambassador, who gave a whole speech in Arabic.

In terms of living in Cairo, I'm truly amazed at what I can do now compared with when I first arrived. I am happy travelling all over the place to go to work and meet friends. I can go to the shops and buy food and other things (except the butcher). I am progressing in Arabic (but it is really hard!) I have a life here and friends, and I do interesting things. Sometimes, though, I am gut-wrenchingly homesick, which was particularly true when I was sick. The longer I live here the more layers of Egyptian culture I uncover, and the more I realise just how different these two cultures are. Many things about Egypt get me aerated, but there are also many things that I love, although I'm almost at the end of my rope with the fact that we still don't have broadband.

I'm also still teaching my group of young ladies. They are still a pleasure to teach and I love it. They are so enthusiastic. I must admit it's good to teach when you can choose your pupils. One of my friends teaches and some of her students aren't nice to teach at all. I'm not sure how I would cope with that.  But it's good to keep my hand in with the teaching.

Chico
Oh yes - big news. I have a cat. I'm supposed to have two cats but one cat is a bit poorly and is still in the shelter. My cat is called Chico and he's about 4 years old. He's a bit of a character. Very lovey dovey one minute and then trying to bite my hand off the next. Sigh. Still, I do love him and it's really nice to come home to someone who's pleased to see me. It makes the apartment less empty when A isn't there, which is a lot of the time. It would be a lie to say that everything is rosy in the garden in my relationship. The challenges of an intercultural relationship have been well and truly brought home to me over the last few months. It really doesn't help that the tourist industry in Egypt is rock bottom - I read the other day that tourist numbers had dropped again in March - I find it hard to see how they can go down much further. This has caused a lot of stress and one of A's businesses has had to close down. So tempers are fraying. But I think our commitment to each other is as strong as ever and we're trying hard to get over these bumps in the road. I can't deny that it's hard though sometimes.

My life in Cairo continues to develop. I now have loads of friends, including some Egyptian friends. We went to see the opera Aida a few weeks ago in Cairo Opera House. Opera isn't really my thing but it was an experience. I think Aida is supposed to be a beautiful young maiden, rather than a fat woman of my age who groans when she stands up, and I think the hero is supposed to be young and fit, not a short fat Korean. But still. It was still good fun. I'm still going to writer's group and reading group, and various other things that get organised on Internations. I am a member of a quiz team for the fortnightly quiz at the British Community Association.

I'm sure there's more to tell you but that will have to wait for a future blog. In the meantime, I'm going to enjoy my last day here in Hurghada.

Egyptian Streets Article

Is love enough?

Culture Shocked

The things we do for love

A coffee, a croissant and a whole new life, please (page 87)